MEASURE. ARRANGE. PRINT.

Every drawer,
exactly organized.

Type the inside of a drawer. Drag bins across a grid.
Download a file your printer is ready for. No screws, no glue — the bins fit each other, and the drawer.

Measure the drawer → Arrange the bins → Print & drop in

The plan

Drag across cells to make a bin. Click a bin to change it.

In 3D — the very solids that print
Building your drawer Drag to orbit · scroll to zoom · click a bin

The print guide

1. Measure the drawer

  • Width across the front, inside the drawer, at the narrowest point you can find (drawers are rarely square; check front and back).
  • Depth from the inside of the front to the inside of the back.
  • Height from the drawer's floor to the top of its side. Bins stop 3 mm below that by default, so the drawer closes under a desk or a worktop.
  • A steel rule or a tape is fine; the bins leave half a millimetre at each side, so you do not need calipers. If the drawer floor bows, measure the height at its highest.

2. Arrange the bins

  • Pick what the drawer is for and a starting layout, then make it yours: drag across cells to join them into one bin, click a bin to split it inside, make it low, or give it a finger scoop.
  • The grid's cell size comes from your drawer, so whatever you draw fills it edge to edge. Columns and rows are the only knobs: fewer means bigger cells.
  • Keep anything that must lie flat (pens, knives, brushes) in a lane as deep as the drawer. Put low bins at the front so you can see over them.
  • Identical bins print as one part with a quantity, so repeating a size keeps the parts list short and the plates full.

3. Slice and print

  • The 3MF opens in Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer or PrusaSlicer with every part already standing on the plate, named, in print orientation. One file per plate. Open it, choose a filament, slice, print.
  • Layer height 0.2 mm. Walls 4 loops or more: the wall is designed to print solid, and the default Arachne wall generator fills whatever is left. Top and bottom 5 and 4 layers. Infill does not matter; there is almost nothing to fill.
  • No supports. Every part prints as placed; the steepest overhang is the back of a clip at about 30°. No brim on a textured plate. A smooth plate and a tall bin: 3 mm of brim.
  • Elephant foot compensation at the slicer's default (0.15 mm) keeps the first layer flush, so bins sit square and clips fit.
  • Filament. PLA for the house. PETG for a bathroom or a garage that gets hot (PLA softens in a car, or in a sunlit garage in summer). Matte filaments hide layer lines beautifully in a drawer.
  • Bambu's P2S, P1 and X1 plates are 256 mm square; the A1 mini's is 180. Anything the packer cannot fit is listed under the parts, and the fix is more columns (smaller cells) or a bigger printer.

4. Put it together

  • Bins drop into the drawer in the order of the plan. They should go in with a little room, never forced; if one binds, the drawer is narrower than measured — raise Room at the drawer's sides and reprint that row.
  • Clips. Where two bins touch, their channels face each other. Hold the bins together and slide a clip down from the top; it stops on the floor. A clip is a bowtie: two dovetail keys back to back, as long as the gap between the bins is wide. Three fits: Normal for nearly everyone; Snug for a well-tuned printer and a drawer you carry around; Loose if the first ones are stiff. Changing the fit reprints only the clips.
  • Clips are optional. A drawer filled edge to edge holds itself. They earn their keep in a half-filled drawer, or when you lift a block of bins out as one — a tray of screws that goes to the job.

How the bins are engineered

  • Walls are a whole number of nozzle lines, so the slicer prints them solid with no gap-fill wiggles. The floor is a whole number of layers. Both are the minimum that does not flex, so bins print fast and light.
  • The dovetail channel is 1.4 mm deep, 3 mm wide at the mouth and 4.6 at the back. Behind it the wall thickens inward just where the channel is, so there is always 1.6 mm of solid plastic behind the joint and the rest of the wall stays thin. The channel is blind — it ends at the floor — so a clip can never drop through.
  • Corners are rounded outside and in: stronger, easier to clean, and the first layer sticks better with no sharp corner to lift.
  • Scoops are a cosine dip, never deeper than three-tenths of the bin, so the front wall stays stiff and the clip beneath still has its full hold.
  • Every part is one closed, outward-facing solid, checked by the tests that come with the page: no slicer repair, no "non-manifold" warnings.

Cubby runs entirely in your browser. Nothing is uploaded; a saved design is a small text file. Measurements in the sheet are millimetres. Bambu Lab, Bambu Studio and Prusa are trademarks of their owners; Cubby is an independent tool.